We live in a world of information overload, with seemingly pertinent data assailing us from all angles, thanks to packaging design, the media and the Internet. In many cases, it's too much information. From cold medicines to vehicles, electronics to hunting boots and bows, there are seemingly endless choices, with statements and claims in favor of many different products.

If you don't have a good grasp of the subject, making an intelligent buying decision is virtually impossible.

Selecting the best shotgun slug for a particular gun is one of those subjects. Rifled slugs, full-bore attached-wad slugs, high-velocity sabots, reduced-recoil slugs - the selection is wider and more varied than at any time in history.
 
The bottom line is that you must try several in your gun to determine the best. But that makes for a very short article. So let's take a look at how to narrow the candidates that you tote to the range.

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When a new rifle comes out of its box all bright and shiny, your first thought is to shoot it. Go ahead and scratch that itch. But your next move should be to develop loads tailored to the rifle that deliver its best accuracy and hunting potential.

The first step in selecting pet loads is to decide how the rifle will be used. A rifle chambered for a large magnum cartridge will probably fire a full-power hunting load. These cavernous cases can make reduced-velocity practice loads difficult to assemble. However, cartridges like the .270 Win, .30-06 Spfld and the new 25 WSSM are very versatile and can be loaded right up to the maximum for big game hunting, short-range small game or accurate target practice.

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It's a one-shot deal. Legions of modern muzzleloader hunters accept that limitation and do everything possible to make the first shot count. Unfortunately, hunting outcomes are not always predictable, and often, stuff happens.
 
The time will come when you will need a second shot. When that happens, things will be frantic and you will need it fast. A fast second shot is possible, but it takes the right equipment, practice and a near-unconscious knowledge of where everything is in order to pull it off.
 
It's a safe bet that today's muzzleloader hunters fall into two distinct groups. The minority is the traditional group that opts for flinters and sidelocks. You are the purist. In choosing that camp, you have had to study your firearm in detail. You know the intricacies of patch thickness, speed blocks, cow's knees and such, or you wouldn't opt to be in that camp. The other group, the vast majority, is packing a modern inline. You just want to hunt. It's to this group this primer on the fast second shot applies.

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It is an association that has been cast in stone for decades: muzzleloaders equal short range.
 
The fact that history records 500-, 800- and 1,000-yard muzzleloader matches as far back as the 1700s in England, France, Germany and the colonial United States seems to escape everyone, as we continue to believe that frontstuffers were never meant to go the distance.
 
Much of that came from the replica Hawken rifles that dominated the U.S. muzzleloading scene from the 1940s through the mid-80s. That all changed when an obscure Iowa railroad worker gave us the first commercially successful inline rifle in 1985.
 
With the inline craze came fast-twist barrels, telescopic sights and long saboted bullets. Such advancements made placing a bullet within a pie-plate-sized circle at 200 yards not just doable, but expected. It's as easy as using a centerfire rifle. Before an inline user attempts a long shot at game, he needs to prepare for it and understand what's going on in his rifle.

Baseline Accuracy
Don't even think about taking a 200-yard shot if your rifle isn't capable of placing three shots within 2 inches at 100 yards. One inch is much preferred. The reason is geometry, and it holds true for muzzleloaders as much as it does with centerfires. If the shot is 2 inches off the mark at 100 yards, it won't be 4 inches off at 200, as some believe. It's a non-linear progression. Two inches off at 100 is 8 inches off at 200. That's a miss - or worse yet - a cripple.

You must spend the time to work up an accurate 100-yard load for your rifle before you start lobbing away at 200. Fortunately, muzzleloaders are pretty predictable. Most fast-twist .50-caliber barrels found in today's muzzleloaders shoot best with a load of about 100 to 120 grains behind a well-designed saboted bullet in the 275- to 325-grain range. In spite of the hype, I have yet to find a 150-grain load that shoots with adequate long-range precision in any rifle.
 
Also critical for long-range accuracy is bullet choice. Here again, most any bullet will do if your shots are 100 yards or less, but to stretch 'em out, you need quality. Choices are few, but fortunately, widely available: Buffalo's SSB in 275, 325 or 375 grains, Power Belts in 290 to 300, Winchester Platinum Tip in 300 grains, or the latest entry, Hornady's 300-grain SST in either the Hornady version or the Thompson/Center Shock Wave offering (same bullet, different packaging).

All of these bullets have demonstrated the ability to shoot 1 inch or less at 100 yards from a bench in quality scoped rifles. In New Mexico, more elk, mule deer and antelope are dropped at long range with the 325 SSB over 120 grains of Pyrodex Triple Seven than any other load. The combination works.

Triggers
As goes the trigger, so goes the group. You can't shoot tight groups with hard, clunky triggers. Triggers must break clean at no more than 31/2 pounds to be dependable long-range performers, and here, your local gunsmith can be your best friend. A large part of the reason the T/C Encores have a reputation as tack drivers goes back to the superb trigger. If yours isn't right, have it fixed or forget about shooting at long range. 

The Three-Shot Group
Many of the groups you see advertised touting the virtues of various rifles are fired under near-lab conditions. Notably, every shot in the group is fired from a squeaky-clean barrel. They look impressive, but they don't represent what happens in the real world. Squeaky-clean barrels do odd things, most rifles shoot best with a slightly fouled bore. One reduced-load fouler shot is the usual prep.

What your rifle does with the next two or three shots WITHOUT CLEANING is most indicative of what you can expect in the field. Fire the fouler, then two or three shots to determine the group, then clean and start again. Don't quit experimenting until you have a load that will turn in a tight group under these conditions.
 
Anyone who hunts in open country fully understands why this is a must. If you take the long shot, and either drop the animal or miss clean, then all is well. But if you hit a tad off center, you must know precisely where that second shot will go, and you sure don't have time to clean your bore. When you need a second shot with a muzzleloader, it's because things got cheeky and at that point, precision is critical.
 
Pyrodex is the No. 1 propellant choice for hunters for that reason. It burns much cleaner, leaves less residue and allows you to fire that three-shot string without excessive crud buildup to affect accuracy and make reloading difficult. Beyond three shots, it gets tough, but for the first three, the fouler has little effect.
 
After you work the kinks out at 100 yards, the next step is a no-brainer. You must practice at 200. Hunters who don't are just asking for trouble, and those who do develop a confidence that makes a big difference when that long shot presents itself. They know they can because they've done it. Yes, the long shots are doable, but not until you and your rifle are ready.

Ralph M. Lermayer
GunHunter Magazine - September 2005

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I did it - hit him right where you told me to, behind his shoulder!" my excited hunter said. I simply nodded an affirmative. He'd indeed hit the buck behind the shoulder - but a long way behind it.
 
As he collected his gear and reloaded, I replayed the scene that had just unfolded. The buck was a good one, a solid 10-pointer with about a 22-inch outside spread and lots of mass. I'd seen that whitetail a couple of days earlier and estimated he was at least 5 years old.
 
The buck was exactly what we were looking for. He'd responded to my rattling horns, but came in cautiously. With some extra grunting, I was able to coax him out of the brush for a good broadside shot.

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I learned about handload problems on big game hunts the hard way. Cartridges that worked okay at the range failed in the field. Although the rifle I was using was prettier than an ocean sunset and accurate with certain loads, it was extremely sensitive to pressure.
 
I lost opportunities on two fine animals - neither touched by a bullet; both clean misses at medium range. The first was a record-class antelope, a true 16-inch trophy. The shot had no chance. The primer blew, and when the smoke cleared, the buck was beating a path toward the Nebraska border.

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Only a few hits upside the head from hard-kicking shotshell loads were required for me to realize I can hit more ducks and clay targets when my gun kicks a little less. A gas-operated autoloader is a big help in softening the recoil of those hammering loads, and that can lead to a better day in the field.
 
"We all flinch when we shoot a shotgun," says Scott Grange of Browning and Winchester. "It's just a matter of how much we flinch. When you're shooting a gas gun, though, the slightly softer recoil is going to make you less likely to yank the trigger and lift your head off the stock comb in anticipation of getting kicked while shooting 200 clays over a day."
 
That gentler kick also helps keep your sight picture after firing a shot. That can give you a moment's more time to align your gun on a second or third target.

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Your first shot at game is your best chance for success. To make that first shot count, though, takes preparation and then good judgment and shooting skill in the field. The following 10 tips will help you place your first shot where it counts.

Know exactly where your bullets hit at various ranges. If a hunter hasn't fired his rifle to determine the bullet drop and wind drift at 400 yards, he has little business shooting at that distance. Ballistic tables in ammunition catalogs provide a bullet's approximate trajectory. But they don't take into consideration the difference in bullet velocity from your rifle or slug gun.
 
From example, when I first bought a .25-06, I thought the velocity of its Speer 120-grain flat-base spitzer bullets fired with 49 grains of IMR 4350 powder was slightly over 3,000 feet per second. I sighted the rifle to hit 2 inches high at 100 yards and happily hunted with it for a couple of years, thinking the bullet drop was 5 inches at 300 yards and 17 inches 400 yards. I shot a couple of mule deer and antelope at ranges between 80 and 175 yards and thought I had a really flat-shooting rifle.

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Many hunters take great pride in how their rifle performs and looks. I can live with an ugly rifle as long as it shoots well. Many riflestocks, after several years of use, start to look like they were scavenged from a battlefield or used as a club. With minimal effort and the proper tools, you can refinish a wood stock, often making it good as new. Or, you can paint the stock and give your rifle a new personality.
 
Painting a wood riflestock is a good option if your rifle has gouges and scratches that can't be raised or repaired. Painting can also provide camouflage, which can be immensely beneficial if you get close to game. Whatever the reason, painting a stock is not difficult and can be completed in a couple of evenings.
 
Unless you are inclined to paint the metal surfaces of your rifle, your first step should be complete disassembly of the gun. Remove all parts from the stock with the exception of the recoil pad, which can be left on the stock and not interfere with the painting process. Next, take fine-grit sandpaper (400 works very well) and rough up the exposed surfaces of the stock. Then you can use Testors Contour Putty, available at hobby shops, to fill in all the dents and potholes your rough handling has created. Let this set up for a day or so and then smooth the surface of the stock with sandpaper. After sanding, wipe the dust and debris from the stock with a damp rag and let stand overnight.

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Sighting-in a rifle is a chore that too many hunters put off until right before the deer season rolls around. In terms of excitement, checking the zero on an existing gun ranks up there with painting the house or cutting the grass.

You know the drill: Gather up the heavy rest, sandbags, spotting scope and other gear, and head to the range.

Having the right equipment makes a big difference. A solid front rifle rest is a must, as is a stable rear bag to cradle the rifle butt. Such bags are usually filled with sand and small enough to be moved without much effort.

To shoot small groups like those you see in magazines, the bench you use must be stable. It should be the best one at the range, made from heavy lumber or reinforced concrete, and firmly attached to the ground. The last thing you need is to have a bench "walk" while you're shooting. Get everything out now, including your front rest, sandbag, ammunition, spotting scope, ear and eye protection.

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I hate math - always have. I tried to duck out of my entire last year of high school algebra, got busted and spent a whole summer making it up so I could graduate. All I cared about were journalism and English courses, and spending every available moment outdoors, gun, bow or fishing rod in hand.
 
Two pivotal events in my life did pique my interest in numbers. At a young age, I discovered money and thought it would be a good idea to learn how to count. Later, I learned that applying just a little bit of numerology to how I set up my rifles could extend how far and accurately I could hit and kill game. Suddenly, numbers mattered.
 
Apparently, I'm not the only shooter with an ingrained aversion to numbers. With the elk, antelope and deer openers just weeks away as I write this, the local commercial range is abuzz with activity. Hunters sighting-in a new rifle or checking to see where "Ol' Betsy" is hitting fill the benches.

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Recoil is the rearward motion of a gun on firing. Kick is the slap of the gun's movement we feel. One thing for sure about kick: The less we endure, the better we shoot. There are a few steps you can take to reduce recoil, from modifying your shooting techniques to altering stock design and changing loads.

Shooting Technique
When I first sighted-in my .338 Win Mag off the bench, the rifle's kick made my old football injury act up. I decided the only time I would shoot the gun from the bench again would be to check its sight alignment - and that would be with a sack of lead shot between the butt pad and my shoulder.

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Most rifle hunters fall into one of two camps. Members of the "inch-and-a-half at 100 yards" camp believe any rifle that will place three shots within that size group is plenty accurate for hunting. They are probably right, but I, like many rifle fanatics, fall into Col. Townsend Whelen's "Only accurate rifles are interesting" camp.
 
Of course, not all rifles are accurate. I sell more guns than I care to admit each year because they don't meet my demanding accuracy standards. But sometimes, a rifle comes along that is so pretty, I fall in love with it without firing a shot.
 
Such was the case with a little Remington 700 Classic in .308 that I reviewed last year. Its clean lines and pretty wood caught my eye as soon as I opened the box. The stock fit well and handled like a dream. I was so taken by the gun that, rather than selling it after the initial disappointing range session, I dedicated myself to finding a way to make it shoot well enough that it wouldn't spend its life collecting dust in the back of my safe.

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Some folks say that shooting whitetails is easy; the hard part is scouting and predicting where they'll show up. 

Well, at least the scouting part is true. If only shooting were so easy. Seldom do bucks stand broadside and stone-still like they appear on magazine covers. 

If you hunt from a treestand and have some type of rifle support -- a rail around the stand, for instance -- it's usually not hard to place a bullet where you want. But let's say you're walking to your stand and a huge 10-pointer bolts across the path in front of you. In the brief instant a shot is presented, you don't have time to find a tree, a rock or some other means to steady the barrel. You have to shoot right now!

It'll sure make you wish you'd practiced from the offhand position like those shooting writers often preach. 

The next time you're at the range, make a point of firing from the standing, sitting, kneeling and prone positions and see how well you do.

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Judging wind is more art than science, and overplaying it can cost you game. 

One of the more common bits of advice to shooters is "Allow a little for the wind." Most of us know the wind will blow a bullet off course. Most of us don't know how, why or how far. Any of us planning on shooting much beyond 200 yards should. Wind can turn a hit into a miss, easily shifting a projectile off course by more than a foot at 300 yards.

The atmosphere is much like a giant ocean with various currents flowing in many directions. Air, in fact, is like water in that it has mass and exerts pressure. Turn a bullet loose in this atmosphere and, even though it is moving rapidly, it is slowed because it has to push (buck) air out of its way.

Bullets also get deflected off course if air currents are flowing at any angle other than parallel to their line of flight. This is in agreement with Sir Isaac Newton's first law of mechanics that predicts an object will move at a steady speed in a straight line unless acted on by an outside force. Air is that force.

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